Wednesday, June 11, 2008

"ex-tibet” (on the way to Yubeng Shenpu - Sacred Waterfalls, 3650M, Yunnan Province, China) 2006

A series of photography can be a sketch for an idea for another project that culminates itself into some other medium. The way I think of a photo-documentation of ex-tibet, a part of China now termed as Tibet Autonomous Region, once was Tibet, now populated by Tibetans in ever-changing landscape of China is a definitely sketch for an unknown sculpture, installation, or video project in mind.

I have been interested in Tibet, once a country that used Buddhism as doctrine of its political policy, in other words, peace as a fundamental belief. I wanted to get a hands-on experience of disappearing Tibetan culture before it evaporates into a lost horizon. In 2006, I traveled to Yunnan Province of China, once Kham Province of Tibet, populated by the ethnic minority, Tibetans, and visited a sacred waterfall on Mt. kawa Karpo, one of the three important Tibetan Buddhist Mountains.

As my travel went deeper into the mountain area of Northwestern Yunnan province, I was starting to find nobody that spoke English so I communicated with gestures. In a taxi zigzagging on the rocky road to the village, Xidan, I saw a red umbrella. Under the umbrella, a Tibetan monk was hitchhiking, so we picked him up. With such a limited English the monk knew, we have come to agree to trek together to my final destination, Yubeng. As we trekked from Xidan, my legs started to shake on such a steep climbing and every two minutes I went out of my breath for reaching 3000 m altitude. Every time I couldn't walk anymore, I would stop the monk, Lama Lobsang and offer him candy, fruits, and teaching English words. As we kept stopping and trekking for 5 hours, we have come to know each other without words.

When we entered the flat land of Yubeng, we passed many Tibetans who would stop and listen to Lama's teachings of Buddhism. Thus, everywhere the lama went, he was very welcomed as well as myself accompanying him. We were invited to a dinner at a lodge with Tibetan Yak butter tea. After the dinner, Lama taught Buddhism with such a high-pitched voice with rigorously animated gestures in front of enthusiastic Tibetan family.

The next day, Lama and I headed for Mt. kawa Karpo and Yubeng Shenpu - Sacred Waterfalls. As we walked through the small trek ways with the mist from the waterfall keeping the area damp constantly, so the moss was everywhere like a green carpet. The thick moist air and the silence offered a contemplative road to a sacred waterfall.

As the green road became a permanent snow road, we started to hear the waterfall throwing a large blast of sacred water. The winds changed the directions of slash falling from the cliff of Mt. kawa Karpo with unearthing power of nature. In Tibetan Buddhism that if you go around where the waterfall drops three times, you obtain happiness. So, I managed to circle the blowing drops of icy scared water. As I got drenched completely, somehow I felt the warmth deep inside of me.

Walking down to the village of Yubeng with soaked sweatshirt, I had a week long diarrhea. As the last day of Yubeng arrived and I had to say good-bye to Lama who was going to another village, we hugged and I watched his back disappearing in late afternoon light. Suddenly, an incredible feeling of such a fulfillment came over me and in a slight sense I felt that I understood the idea of pilgrimage.

Friday, April 4, 2008

a Altitude Headache

at Shangri La (Zhongdian)

When I woke up in the morning, for the first time I had an altitude sickness. I thought that maybe I should rest in the city of Shangri La (Zhongdian) for the rest of the time and not to go to Yubeng that was 6-10 hours away on car and trekking. This city was filled with young people and there were many bars and shops.


Then, I forced myself to have a breakfast, getting toasted bread and not having any bite for feeling sick, I took a bus to Songzanlin Monastery.




b This is the....................

at 松赞林寺 (Songzanlin Monastery/Ganden Sumtseling Monastery)Then, in no time, I was at Songzanlin Monastery.
These cartoon-style painted depictions of life in Tibetan Buddhist mural was provocative and humorous at the same time. The young man was standing facing the spectacular view all to himself.

c In the dark corner, there is a prayer

This is looking at what's in front of Songzanlin Monastery, the field was vast and in someways, it reminded me of my grand mother's hometown in Japan.
In the monestery.

d Les Monks des Mystique

As I spent time there, seeing these grown men wearing this reddish brown robe praying with tanned skin mystified me.
I saw many monks. I talked to many of them, imagining their life. Then by the time I walked around the whole Songzanlin Monastery, my headache was gone and I was taken by the atmosphere there. Then, I wanted to experience more. So I took a bus back to Shangri La (Zhongdian).

In the bus, monks were very lively, energetic, and bright in their facial expression.


I quite didn't know how to pay the fee and how much the bus fee was since I spoke no Chinese nor Tibetan. So, I ended up giving a large sum of money so they had to give me a change. This abrasive gesture pissed a lot of people in the buss off, making me look like a big unkind tourist. Maybe, they thought I was a snobby Chinese tourist.

e Tibetan Cab Driver Was a Lama

So, back in Shangri La (Zhongdian), I told a man who was sitting in one of the van that I wanted to go to Deqin (德欽) and Yubeng (雨崩) by showing the names of the town and village that I wrote on a piece of paper. That man brought another man, the driver who seemed very excited about the money that I offered for the trip. I was little bit hesitant and skeptical, but I had no choice and not much time left.
So about one hour later, two men drove this van with me in the back. The one on the right is a monk on the weekend, but for money he wears NorthFace jacket and drives a van/cab.




f 金沙江 Jinsha River (長江源流)の大屈曲



金沙江(長江源流)の大屈曲